another Tej recipe
But at least I found out about Tallah. From what I have read about African brewing practices, it seems common to mix different stages of grain fermentations to create one batch. More on that later.
Another source claims that Tej is a simple mead with Gesho root as a flavoring (possibly preservative?). Harry Kloman’s Tej page discusses the evolution of the word Tej in the Amharic languages, highlighting the difficulties therein. He then goes on to list some literary sources, usually stemming from explorers of the area, who mention Tej in their travels. Either the result of human error or cultural variation, each account of Tej is slightly different, varying the ratios between honey and water, additives, and whether cereal grains were used. The most relevant quote stems from Robert Bourke in 1876 who says
Tej is made in the following way: to one part of honey are added seven parts of water, and well mixed; then some leaves of a plant called "geshoo" are put into the mixture, to make it ferment; it is put outside in the shade and left for a day or two. A piece of cotton cloth is strained over the mouth of the large earthenware jar, or "gumbo," and through this the "tej" is poured; the servant tapping the cloth with his fingers to make the liquid run freely. It one wants to make it stronger, the first brew is used instead of the water; adding honey and geshoo leaves in the same way.
This, along with the majority of quotes provided, shows that Tej is indeed a mead which uses Gesho as a bittering agent.
tej in culture
This also signifies the role Tej has played within a culture. The origins of state societies within Ethiopia (like the Aksumites) were fueled by political and economic contacts with Egypt, South Arabia, and the expansion of Rome. Since all three were major brewers of beer and wine, it would be interesting to see how Tej relates to other drinks at that time. Was Tej developed because the Kings and Queens of Ethiopia wanted to imitate what they saw in Egypt? Was Tej used as a trade good? When did Tej become a drink of the elite, when it can be so easily made at home? Were there taxes regulating the trade? Who knows...
At least there is some recent evidence with which fermentative organisms to use. In their paper published in 2005, Bahiru et al. studied the microflora from 200 samples of Tej at varying stages of development. Although there was significant variation, yeasts and lactic acid bacteria were most common, with S. cerevisiae and Lactobacillus being the dominant representatives. The authors suggest that the fermentative process of Tej probably proceeds as thus: Enterobacteriaceae initiate fermentation and then reduce pH levels until conditions are ideal for lactic acid bacteria and yeasts. However, the authors state that this area requires further research. What this study does show is the variety of organisms involved in fermentation (ten different yeast species, and at least four lactic acid bacteria).
This just goes to show the level of experimentation that can be done with different microorganisms. Would be interesting to know if any form of control for fermentation was being done (such as a branch to collect yeast), but the authors don't mention anything.
I imagine Tej tastes very sweet, but could have extreme variety given regional differences in resources. Given the rise of SABMiller, I just hope Tej and other indigenous beers don’t go extinct.
Bahiru, Bekele, Tetemke Mehari, and Mogessie Ashenafi. "Yeast and lactic acid flora of tej, an indigenous Ethiopian honey wine: Variations within and between production units." Food microbiology 23.3 (2006): 277-282.